A popular canal circuit that takes the traveler across three canals, four counties, through the contrasting salt towns of Middlewich and Nantwich, through the Harecastle Tunnel, 94 locks and 110 miles.
All of it superb!
As a canal boat holiday, it has everything.
There is rural scenery, industrial heritage, engineering feats, and warm cozy village pubs.
Now I have to admit right now that we have not done the circuit in one cruise. But we have covered the entire ring over various trips.
We joined the canal at Middlewich, an old salt town, with the very welcoming Kings Lock Inn. Good moorings here between the lock, and bridge 166.
And, by Big Lock, is the Big Lock Inn, serving a fine pint of Theakston XB, and Directors. There is a canal side garden, and it is boater and family friendly. We quite liked Middlewich, good moorings, a useful selection of shops, two banks, Somerfield and a chandlery by the boatyard.
Wheelock also provides good moorings, a newsagent, and one of our favorite pubs on the trip, the Cheshire Cheese, where our kids gave the juke box a fine work out. A news agency and post office make Wheelock a pleasant spot to re-stock. If you have time, visit the Commercial Hotel, a classic friendly pub with cozy rooms.
From Wheelock onwards, the locks start to get serious, with 26 of them over the next 7 miles before to Kidsgrove and the Harecastle Tunnel.
This was a real culture shock for us, Australians on our first ever canal cruise finding ourselves motoring through the industrial history of England operating heavy slow locks that a year previously, we didn't even know existed!
But we loved it, and what a great stretch of canal it is!
Most of the locks along here are doubled, an improvement made in the 1830's by Thomas Telford to speed up traffic. The locks are spread out, so they are too far for a flight, and too close to take a breather!
The remains of industry, and the potteries, are evident everywhere along this stretch. It's a rural cruise now, with lovely scenery, right down to Lawton Three locks, which is closely followed by Church Locks.
And so we come to Kidsgrove. Here the Macclesfield leaves the Trent and Mersey, heading south, to eventually swing north back at Red Bull, the precursor to today's motorway junction, but a lot more attractive.
The canal water has a real orange tinge, and the closer you get to Harecastle Tunnel, the more orange it gets. By the tunnel, it is a rich maroon colour.
Harecastle Tunnel is 2,962 feet long. Passage through is controlled by BW staff. It is a chilly and spooky experience, but, being one way working, one does not have to worry about oncoming boats. The tunnel used today is the second one opened at Harecastle. The first was opened in 1777. The current one was opened in 1827, (completed in three years, as opposed to the original one taking eleven years!)to ease congestion caused by the huge increase in traffic. In 1914 the original tunnel was abandoned due to bad subsidence and declining traffic, it can be seen blocked off next to the existing tunnel.
After the 40 minute or so journey through the tunnel, it is with some relief to cruise into daylight and more at Longport. There is a water point just by the exit to the Caldon Canal.
Stoke is a canal friendly town, with plenty of moorings.
Although most of the pottery trade has gone, you can still see remnants around Stoke, with bottle kilns, warehouses and old factories reminding us of what used to be.
From Stoke, it is a pleasant cruise through Hem Heath where a pleasant little gift shop operates. There are good moorings by bridge 103 to wander into Barlaston, where the Plume of Feathers is a welcome sight
The Wedgewood Visitor Centre can also be reached from bridge 104.
Try and pause a while at Stone. It is a delightful, bustling town, once the headquarters of the Trent and Mersey Canal Company.
Another boater friendly town, moorings are plentiful, and the town centre only a few minutes away.
The Star Inn, by bridge 93, is one of the oldest pubs on the system, and serves a fine Banks, and Pedigree, and serves bar meals. Don't miss it.
In the town, Safeway and Somerfield both have supermarkets, and there are plenty of other shops to restock the fridge.
We found mooring before lock 27 (just before bridge 93) ideal, handy to the Star and the town.
Continuing on through the lovely Trent Valley, the canal accompanied by the rail and road heads towards Great Haywood.
It is well worth a stop at Sandon, a pretty village a brief stroll from bridge 83. There you can relax at the Dog and Doublet with its timeless atmosphere and Bass beers. There is also a handy Post Office and store here.
As the canal turns towards Weston, the railway thunders past, emphasizing the pleasure of the quiet 3 mph canal life.
Just try sitting on the village green near the marvelous Woolpack at Weston. Selling Marston's Ales, this pub has been highly recommended by Pearson's and other guides, and rightly so. Also has post office and store in the village.
Great Haywood is one of our favorite canal villages. With its beautiful towpath bridge, it is as lovely a spot as you will find on the system. There are ample moorings here, especially pleasing after bridge 73 with an outlook over Shugborough Hall We first visited Great Heywood in 1985 on our very first canal boat holiday. We were returning our Anglo Welsh boat at the end of the cruise., It was cold, and wet, so didn't see a lot of the town. We had to wait until 2005, to get back. But, get back we did, with our share-owned boat, and we stayed three days. Anglo Welsh has its narrow boat hire fleet here, where there is a water point and rubbish disposal. A delightful farm shop is alongside the junction. It's fun just to wander around and marvel at the variety of goods on offer there. Great Haywood is also a great place for walks.
Cannock Chase, and Shugborough Hall and Museum both offer interesting and easily accessible areas for walking. On the way to either, you are likely to come across Essex Bridge, probably the finest example of a packhorse bridge in the country. It's just near lock 73. Cross the canal bridge at lock 73 and you are in Great Haywood. There is Spa, Post Office, laundromat and two excellent pubs, the Clifford Arms, and the Fox and Hounds. The Clifford Arms, a pub we have visited a few times, has a nice outside eating area,. Also a friendly welcome. Heading out of Great Heywood is a surprise, as Tixall Wide is more like a lake, than a canal. Depending on who you listen to, this was built to improve the view from Tixall Hall, or it is a natural lake there before the canal was built. Whatever the real story is, it's a unique bit of canal, with an array of waterfowl and birdlife ever present.
The gate house to Tixall Hall is still visible. Cruising through the Penk Valley, the towns of Baswich and Wildwood slip by, their front gardens sliding right to the canal. There are only 5 locks from Great Heywood and Penkridge. We like Penkridge, it's an ideal town to explore on foot. There is a handy fruit and veg there, some great pubs, a Co Op, a couple of banks, and fab market held by the river on Saturdays and Wednesdays. Good mooring spots by bridge 83a, accompanied by some attractive canal side homes. Try the Star, in Market Square. It's a very attractive pub with a traditional feel inside, serving excellent Bass beers. The Library has internet access. There is a handy shop up by bridge 86 as well, for last minute supplies. It is a contrasting cruise through Otrherton and Rodbaston locks, with the busy m6 thundering beside you on one side, and a peaceful rural outlook on the other. The canal leaves the highway, and once through Boggs, Brick Kiln, and Gaily locks, one is ready for a pause at Gaily Wharf. The Roundhouse Canal Shop is located here, right by Bridge 79 that carries the A5, (Watling Street) over the canal. A unique gift shop housed in the original round toll clerk's office, it is a well stocked with an array of gifts, canal ware and souvenirs. Plenty of moorings right down to bridge 78. Viking Afloat has one of their narrow boat hire fleets here as well.
It is now a winding, lock free cruise past Hatherton Junction, where Hatherton Marina is located. Here, a bit of industry creeps in with a few gravel pits and chemical works briefly appearing. But this is only temporary, as soon the welcoming Fox and Anchor appears, tempting a stop for the evening. The much improved Fox and Anchor has a large outdoor area overlooking the canal. We sampled a fine John Smiths, and Tetley's there a couple of times. We thought of strolling in to Coven village, but the busy A 449 soon changed our mind. Autherly Junction is where we left the Staffs, to head up the Shroppie. The Staffs continues through the West Midlands avoiding Wolverhampton, while visiting Cookley, Kidderminster and concluding at Stourport on Severn. The Shropshire Union Canal, ("the Shroppie"), is one of the most popular British Canals. It features high embankments, deep damp cuttings, pleasant villages and towns, and spectacular scenery. It is rightfully one of the most popular British Canals From the Staff and Worcester, it's a right hand turn under a fine roving bridge, and through a six inch stop lock, and you are on one of the finest canals in the country.
Although close to Wolverhampton, Autherley Junction is a pleasant spot, with a well stocked canal shop at the Water Travel base, and water point and sani station a bit further along. But the housing estates and sewerage plant here have always put us off mooring for the night. Wide and straight, the Shropshire Union Canal cuts across the rolling Staffordshire hills. The old Defiant night fighter factory is by bridge 4, just past the Wolverhampton Boat Club. The canal is forever changing as you experience the views from high embankments, then plunge into a deep cutting, damp with thick ferns and vegetation. The first village we come to is Brewood or "Brood" as the locals call it. Here is a delightful village with plenty of old fashioned shops and pleasant locals. Take your time to walk around the streets and get to know Brewood.
There is also a super Spa, post office, a great hairdresser, chemist and newsagent.
The highly recommended Admiral Rodney, well worth the stroll through the town to Dean Street. Friendly staff, lots of pictures of H.M.S. Rodney, and a fine pint of Abbotts Ale. A great pub! Just past Lapley Wood cutting is Wheaton Aston. Here, by bridge 19, is Taylor's garage, where there is a water point and sani station with fuel also available. More importantly the Hartley Arms is also by Bridge 19, offering food a fine pint of Banks Original, and warm, open fire. From Wheaton Aston to Gnosall is a pleasant lock free couple of hours, where you can relax and really enjoy some of the nicest scenery on the Shropshire Union Canal. You will find a very friendly butcher in the group of shops on the right over bridge 34, as you head into town. Also in the town is a Bowells of Gnosall (with their own radio station playing), a fish and chip shop, and a bakery. The two pubs on the canal are the Navigation, by bridge 35, and the Boat, at bridge 34. To be fair, we tied both, and suggest you do the same. Both are excellent
Just through the Shelmore Embankment is Norbury Junction. This is where the old Newport branch headed off, hence the "Junction" in the name. Now, Anglo Welsh hire narrow boats have gone, replaced by the very enthusiastic Norbury Wharf Cruisers. There is a pump out and water point here also. The Junction Inn is opposite, by bridge 38. The in-appropriately named Grubb Street Cutting is a deep cutting with lush thick vegetation and lots of bird life The double arched bridge taking the A519 high above carries the much photographed telegraph Post, still standing as it has done for a hundred or so years. Try and moor where the very famous Anchor in is located. An original boater's pub, the Anchor is still pretty much as it was when it quenched the working boaters thirst, still serving ale from the cask.
It is also a pleasant walk into High Offley, but we never did find the pub there.
Further on, the Wharf Tavern, by bridge 55 offers a pleasant canal side beer garden. There is no longer a shop or post office in Cheswardine. That's progress! Two more cuttings, Woodseaves and Tyrley Cutting lead to Market Drayton Woodseaves is again deep, with the vegetation meeting overhead forming a canopy. There is a 2mph speed limit through this area, to help avoid rock slide, so take it easy! Bridges 57 and 58 tower above in another world. Tyrley Locks are well maintained and in very pleasant surroundings. There are 5 of them, and warm you up for the job ahead. A pleasant surprise at the top of Tyrley, was the Four Alls. Just ten minutes walk from the locks; this welcoming inn was a welcome resting place after the day's locks. The Adeley and Audlem flight keep one moving as you enter Cheshire. There are 5 locks at Tyrley and 15, yes 15, at Audlem.
All are in good condition and easy to use. We usually do the Audlem locks in 2 days, mooring between locks 2 and 3, then down the flight to between locks 11 and 12 the next day. This allows us to catch our breath, and spend more time enjoying Audile. A great little town, Audlem has all you want in a Cheshire village. Winding streets, beautiful church, shops and pubs.
The Shroppie Fly, between locks 12 and 13 has the well known narrow boat bow as a bar. The Lord Combermere, in the village, has recently received a facelift, and serves great food. Mooring can be in demand here. Best spot is below bridge 78. We often moor below lock 15 when coming up to Audlem, and tackle the locks the next day. There is scenic Views right across the valley, where wildlife congregates in the wetlands. The Shropshire Union strikes out straight and true across the Cheshire plain towards Nantwich, with only the Hack green locks causing an interruption. The stone bridges frame each other in the distance, rolling green hills and grazing dairy cattle keeping you company. Nantwich is just about the perfect Cheshire town. Packed with Medieval buildings, most dating from the fire of 1583. It is worth taking your time to get to know Nantwich. Head to the tourist information office, grab a map, and just wander the streets.
Market day is Thursday and Saturday. If you happen to be around there in April, there is a great music festival. Most of the hotels have free live music over this second April weekend. The nearest pub to the canal is the Oddfellows Arms, a very welcoming pub with low beams and clean bars. The new landlord even does a floorshow here on Saturday evenings. One of our very favorite Shropshire Union Canal pubs. Also worth trying here are the Vine, and the Crown, in the centre of the town, which as well as serving fine wine and ales, does a mean cappuccino as well! Plenty of shops here as well. Woolies have gone, but a good butcher, newsagent and lots of eateries, especially along Pepper Street. It can get very busy here, but normally there are good moorings either side of the aqueduct. If you get a chance, walk up to the little town of Acton. (from bridge 93, or head up under the aqueduct, away from Nantwich) A quaint little village, with The Star, a 13th Century pub with mounting steps out the front.
It looks like it has recently re-opened after a facelift. From Nantwich the Shropshire Union head past the Hurleston Junction on the left, and ignoring the temptation to head up the Llangollen, we keep on the Four Counties Ring. We usually pause at Barbridge Junction, where the Barbridge Inn always tempts us. We have never been game enough to cross the A 51 to the Jolly Tar, but have read and heard good reviews of it. Moorings can be in short supply here at Barbridge, and it pays to arrive early, especially in the peak season. There was once a transshipment shed at Barbridge spanning the canal. You will see where it stood, where the canal narrows just before the right turn into the Middlewich section of the Shropshire Union, the last part of the Four Counties Ring. Once under the arch bridge that greets you on to the Middlewich section, the canal gently winds its way across mainly rural country, passing Venetian marine on the way. High above the meandering River Weaver, the village of Church Minsull can be reached from bridge 14. There are good moorings here as well. There is only 10 miles of the Middlewich section, and once through the Wardle lock, the Ring has been completed. A great canal boat holiday, a great challenge, and great fun! Yes, we'll be back!
For more information on Canal Boat Holidays on the Four Counties Ring, and other Canals, visit http://www.great-canal-and-river-holidays.com/FourCountiesRing.html
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